One situation that comes up almost every car flip is the head lights having haze build up, turning yellow, dull lenses etc.
Last week I went and checked the bulbs for the cargo and 3rd brake light. When I pulled out the stock lens there was no bulb base retainer in place. Luckily the wiring was still intact.
I ordered a LED replacement kit and it arrived today. This kit will serve as a cargo light as well as the 3rd brake light when brakes are applied. Everthing worked out as planned, the cargo light activates when either the interior light switch is set on or the driver door is in the open position.
It’s taken me a few day to troubleshoot that the door power lock problem was due to a bad door lock actuator. I had replaced the automatic lock relay first thinking that if all doors failed it must be a common component between all four door (crew cab). It turned out to be the actuator itself. I disconnected the push lock rods and tested the original actuator itself and the plunger barely pushed out and retracted. The voltage going to the actuator was +12V constant. I could tell the actuator was the original part since the two mounting rivets were still in tact.
Took the Dually over to the local car auto stereo shop to have an alarm installed. I went in knowing that the doors lock/unlock function would not be working.
I worked on my 2000 Chevy Dually C3500 today. I’ve tried several methods for repairing the climate controller. I attempted
When I test drove the Dually for the first time I didn’t noticed the driver seat was damaged. It may have been or the previous owner may have broken it during the time we setup our second meeting. In any case it had to be repaired because I had to sit leaning against the window sill for leverage otherwise the seat would recede backwards in th4 extended cab area.
The first step was to remove the seat from the floor pan.
One of the reason I’m able to flip for other cars of higher value than mine is that the cars I’m trying to get have some issue that current owner doesn’t want to deal with. It could be a costly fix or maybe the registration tags are coming up and a required smog cycle is due. This is where I come in, I fairly good at smog, electrical, climate controller issues. These are the achilles heel for a lot of folks and at some point they don’t want to deal with their troublesome car.
This is the reading I was getting when I did a OBD2 scan.
After replacing Bank 2, Sensor 1 02 sensor and doing a reset the monitors required reset after going through the GM specific drive cycles.
I’ve always wanted one of these suckers, I traded my 1999 Cadillac Deville. This was a risk trade for me as the Chevrolet C3500 LS Dually had a title in Nevada, the paperwork was two owner down transaction and on top of it the truck did not pass smog emissions in California due to the Bank 2, Sensor 1 (pre-cat) heater was not operational.
Other than that the truck is in decent shape for a truck and already lowered which was the appeal for me. It drives like a freakin’ Flintstones car due to the lowered cut front springs and the rear has been “C” notched with the leaf springs reversed. I have a set of helper bags I’m going to install to help with harness of the ride when the pads makes contact.
I’ll go ahead and log when I’m adding oil into the 1999 Cadillac Deville. It will give me an idea of how much it is consuming during a week of commuting. That’s approximately 550 miles a week on the average if I drive Caddy every day of the week.